Square and Solid: How to Join Two Pieces of Wood at 90 Degrees

Joining two pieces of wood at a 90 degree angle is a fundamental woodworking skill. As a master woodworker with over 30 years of experience, I’ve mastered numerous techniques for creating tight, durable right-angle joints. While advanced methods like mortise and tenon or dovetail joints produce exceptional results, several basic techniques can yield strong 90 degree angles using just basic tools. In this article, I will walk through five straightforward methods for joining wood at 90 degrees, outlining the tools and steps required for each.

When choosing a joining method, consider the purpose of your project and tools at your disposal. For example, a simple miter joint may suffice for a basic picture frame, while a more complex dovetail joint will better withstand the rigors of frequent use in drawer joinery. Those new to woodworking should start with easy options like butt or pocket hole joints, then advance to lap and miter joints before attempting intricate joinery. No matter the technique, proper wood selection, cutting, clamping and gluing are imperative for creating optimal 90 degree joints.

While advanced joinery methods produce stunning results, the basics can meet many woodworking needs. By understanding the fundamentals of wood grain, using sharp cutting tools, strategically clamping, and properly applying glue, even novice woodworkers can achieve tight 90 degree joints for basic projects and gain skills to advance to more complex joinery. In the following paragraphs, I’ll guide you through executing five foolproof techniques for joining wood at right angles.


Before diving into the specifics of each joint type, let’s go over some best practices that apply to any wood joint at 90 degrees:

  1. Select the appropriate wood – Choose wood that is straight-grained and free of warping or knots near the joint. Hardwoods like oak or maple make excellent joint choices.
  2. Cut pieces to exact lengths – Precisely measuring and cutting your wood to specified lengths ensures properly fitting joints.
  3. Sand before joining – Lightly sand joint surfaces to remove rough areas and improve glue adhesion.
  4. Apply clamping pressure – Clamp joints tightly while glue dries to maximize strength. Avoid uneven pressure.
  5. Allow adequate curing time – Give glue at least 24 hours to fully cure before removing clamps or stressing the joint.
  6. Check for square – Use a carpenter’s square to confirm your pieces meet at a perfect 90 degree angle.

Now let’s look at five great options for joining wood at 90 degree angles.

Miter Joint

A miter joint refers to two pieces of wood joined at an angle, usually 45 degrees, so that they form a 90 degree corner. Miter joints are commonly used for picture frames, door and window trim, and other decorative woodwork.

Tools Needed

  • Miter saw or circular saw
  • Wood glue
  • Clamps
  • Sandpaper and sanding block
  • Carpenter’s square


  1. Use a miter saw or circular saw to cut the ends of the wood pieces at 45 degree angles. Ensure the angles are precisely cut. Taking the time to adjust your saw and cut test pieces will pay off in tight-fitting joints.
  2. Lightly sand the angled edges that will meet, using sandpaper and a sanding block. This removes saw marks and prepares the surface for gluing.
  3. Apply an even coat of wood glue to both angled edges. Use a glue with longer open time if you need extra time for positioning.
  4. Join the pieces so that the 45 degree angles meet precisely to form a perfect 90 degree corner. Align the edges evenly so the mitered faces sit flush.
  5. Use clamps to tightly secure the joint while the glue dries. Apply even clamping pressure to avoid gaps. Wipe away any excess glue squeeze-out with a damp rag.
  6. Allow the glue to cure fully, then remove clamps. Check for square along the joint using a carpenter’s square.


  • Precise 45 degree angle cuts are crucial for the joint to fit together properly without gaps.
  • Use a sharp 60-80 tooth blade and the appropriate cutting speed on your miter saw.
  • When possible, cut both mating pieces from the same board to limit wood grain variation.
  • For extra strength, add a biscuit, spline, or dowel. Apply glue into these reinforcements.
  • Avoid over-sanding, which can create uneven surfaces. Light sanding gives ideal glue adhesion.

Butt Joint

A butt joint is the simplest option – the two pieces of wood join edge-to-edge at a 90 degree angle. Butt joints are quick and easy for basic projects.

Tools Needed

  • Wood glue
  • Clamps
  • Sandpaper
  • Carpenter’s square
  • Screws or nails (optional)


  1. If needed, cut your wood pieces to precise lengths according to your plans.
  2. Lightly sand the edges that will meet using sandpaper. Sanding provides a smooth surface for maximum glue adhesion.
  3. Apply an even coat of wood glue to the edges of the wood pieces that will meet. Spread the glue evenly across the entire joining surface.
  4. Join the pieces at a 90 degree angle, edges meeting evenly without gaps. Use a carpenter’s square to check the angle.
  5. Use clamps to tightly secure the joint as the glue dries. Place clamps near the ends and spaced evenly along the joint.
  6. Allow the glue to fully cure for at least 24 hours before removing clamps.
  7. For extra strength, add screws or nails after the glue has dried. Predrill holes to prevent wood splitting.


  • Ensure the edges meet flush without any gaps for maximum surface area and bond strength.
  • Maintain firm even clamping pressure along the joint’s length until the glue has fully cured.
  • Thicker wood and longer joints may benefit from adding a dowel, biscuit, or pocket screw reinforcement.

Pocket Hole Joint

A pocket-hole jig allows you to create strong wood joints using angled pocket holes and screws. This is an easy way to create 90 degree joints suitable for frames, cabinets, and other projects.

Tools Needed


  1. Set your pocket hole jig for the thickness of wood you are using. Thinner material requires a shallower hole angle.
  2. On the inside face of both mating boards, use the jig and drill to bore pocket holes at the necessary angles. Generally spacing holes every 5-10 inches is adequate.
  3. Test fit the joint without glue. Ensure the pocket holes align properly at 90 degrees before gluing up. Make any adjustments needed before final assembly.
  4. Apply wood glue to the mating surfaces, avoiding excess inside holes.
  5. Join the pieces at 90 degrees, aligning the pocket holes. Use a carpenter’s square to check for square.
  6. Drive pocket hole screws through the holes to secure the joint. Take care not to overtighten.
  7. Allow the glue to fully dry for at least 24 hours before stressing the joint.


  • Ensure pocket holes are drilled at the correct angles according to the jig’s guide.
  • Prevent wood from splitting near pocket holes by predrilling pilot holes or using stock without knots.
  • For extra strength, add glue inside the holes before driving screws.

Lap Joint

A lap joint involves cutting lap(s) into one piece of wood to create a sturdy interlocking joint. Lap joints are a step up in complexity from simpler butt joints.

Tools Needed

  • Table saw
  • Wood glue
  • Clamps
  • Sandpaper
  • Carpenter’s square


  1. Based on your project plans, determine the lap width needed to match the mating piece’s thickness.
  2. Set up a stop block on your table saw for consistent lap width. Make test cuts in scrap until the fit is perfect.
  3. Use the table saw to cut the required lap(s) into one piece of wood. Make multiple passes to the marked depth.
  4. Sand the lap surfaces with sandpaper to remove saw marks and prep for gluing.
  5. Apply wood glue evenly into the lap. Glue both the lap bottom and inside surfaces.
  6. Join the pieces so the lap fits tightly over the mating piece like a puzzle. Tap gently with a mallet if needed.
  7. Use clamps to apply firm, even pressure while the glue dries. Check for square.
  8. Allow the glue to fully cure before removing clamps.


  • Cut the laps accurately for a tight friction fit lap joint. Loose laps will weaken the joint.
  • When possible, cut lap from long grain side to prevent wood fibers from short grain being exposed at bottom of lap.
  • Glue laps evenly but avoid squeeze-out in bottom of lap to allow solid wood-to-wood contact.

Dowel Joint

A dowel joint uses wooden dowels to align and reinforce a 90 degree joint. Dowels add exceptional strength.

Tools Needed

  • Doweling jig
  • Drill and dowel bit
  • Wood glue
  • Wood dowels
  • Sandpaper
  • Clamps
  • Mallet


  1. To maximize strength, select straight grained hardwood dowels of the same wood species as your boards.
  2. Use a doweling jig and drill to bore matching dowel holes in the wood pieces. Holes should be centered in the board thickness.
  3. Sand dowel end grain lightly to open wood pores for better glue adhesion.
  4. Apply wood glue into the dowel holes and coat dowel ends.
  5. Tap dowels into one piece with a mallet. Leave half of each dowel exposed.
  6. Add glue to the protruding dowel ends. Align mating piece onto the dowels at 90 degrees.
  7. Fully seat the joint using a mallet if needed. Clamp tightly until glue cures.


  • When drilling dowel holes, clamp a backer board to prevent tear-out at hole exits.
  • Ensure accurate dowel hole spacing and alignment for a smoothly fitting joint.
  • Give extra curing time for glue to adhere to the cross-grain dowel ends in the joint.

Comparison Table of Different Types of Woodworking Joints for Joining Two Pieces of Wood at 90 Degrees

Joint Type Tools Needed Difficulty Strength Best Uses
Butt Joint Glue, clamps Beginner Medium Frames, simple projects
Miter Joint Miter saw, glue, clamps Beginner Medium Picture frames, trim
Pocket Hole Pocket hole jig, drill, glue, clamps Beginner High Frames, cabinets, furniture
Lap Joint Table saw, glue, clamps Intermediate High Furniture, boxes
Dado Joint Table saw, dado blade, glue, clamps Intermediate High Shelves, cabinets, boxes
Dowel Joint Doweling jig, drill, glue, dowels, clamps Intermediate High Furniture, cabinetry
Mortise and Tenon Mortise chisel, tenon saw, glue, clamps Advanced Very High Furniture, doors, cabinetry
Dovetail Joint Dovetail saw, chisel, glue, clamps Advanced Very High Drawers, boxes, furniture

Reinforcing Joints

For certain applications like furniture that must withstand heavy use, you may want to reinforce basic 90 degree joints using metal fasteners or additional wood elements. Here are some reinforcement options:

  • Corner brackets – Metal brackets attach to both boards for serious joint support. Predrill holes to prevent wood splitting.
  • Triangular corner blocks – Gluing small triangular wood blocks into the joint corner adds exceptional strength.
  • Biscuits – Biscuits align boards and add stiffness across the joint. Requires a biscuit joiner tool to cut slots.
  • Splines – Thin strips of wood fit into grooves cut into each board, creating a strong interlocked joint.
  • Dowels – As described above, dowels act as internal reinforcement for basic joints like butt or miter joints.
  • Pocket screws – Adding pocket screws is an easy reinforcement option for butt, lap, and other 90 degree joints.

Frequently Asked Questions about Joining Wood at 90 Degrees

What is the easiest joint for a beginner woodworker to start with?

The easiest joints for a beginner woodworker are butt joints and miter joints. These only require basic tools like a saw, glue, clamps, and sandpaper.

When should I use pocket hole joints versus traditional joints?

Pocket holes joints allow easy 90 degree joins without clamps. They are great for projects like face frames, cabinets, and table legs. For fine furniture, traditional joints are preferable.

Is it okay to join boards that are slightly warped?

It’s best to only join straight, flat boards without twist or warp. Slight cupping can be clamped flat, but avoid wood with major warping.

What is the best wood glue to use for joining boards?

For most applications, a PVA wood glue like Titebond is ideal. Look for a glue that provides adequate working time and offers a strong bonded joint.

How long should I leave clamps on a glued joint?

It’s best to allow wood glue at least 24 hours to fully cure before removing clamps or stressing the joint. Thicker joints may need longer clamp time.

Can I reinforce my miter joints for better strength?

Yes, adding dowels, splines, or biscuits to a miter joint will improve strength and prevent separation over time.

Why aren’t my butt joints aligning at 90 degrees?

If your boards aren’t joining squarely, ensure your saw blade is exactly 90 degrees to the table using a square. Cut tests pieces to dial this in before final cuts.

What mistakes should I avoid when making lap joints?

Be sure lap width precisely matches board thickness for a tight fit. Also avoid tear-out, glue squeeze-out inside the joint, and gaps between boards.

How many dowels should I use in a dowel joint?

Typically 3-4 dowels in a longer joint is sufficient. Space them evenly to keep the joint aligned and prevent twisting.


In conclusion, mastering the art of joining two pieces of wood at a perfect 90-degree angle is a fundamental skill for any woodworking enthusiast or DIY hobbyist. Through the comprehensive guide provided here, you’ve gained valuable insights into the various techniques and methods available, from using traditional tools like miter saws and dowels to modern innovations like pocket hole joinery. Achieving precise right angles in your woodworking projects not only enhances their structural integrity but also elevates their visual appeal.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *